Code 3 LP6000 values (excluding amber bars)

[TXDPSCJ]

Topic excluding amber bars….

What is the current value of a used Code 3 LP6000 w/ center speaker, clear domes, red/blue rotators and still has long length of proper cord/cable affixed to it?

I’ve tried searching, but many threads on here are discussing the bar configs, many amber setups, how to wire or people just looking for individual parts/pieces.

Thanks elightbar Community!

 

[Jennifer Rose Towing]

Condition is a big factor. Unfortunately "good condition" can vary wildly from person to person.
Hazy, weathered, scratched or cracked domes. Dull, faded or oxidized reflector surfaces.Interior corrosion and how much work has it had done. these are some of the main things I look at if I am paying anything other then garage sale prices.

As for your bars value, depending on condition and options, likely $50-$300. I would say the average bars I see going for are in the $150-$250 range. Unless its a junker, lots of photos seem to help as it can show condition better.

 

[TXDPSCJ]

Condition is a big factor. Unfortunately "good condition" can vary wildly from person to person.
Hazy, weathered, scratched or cracked domes. Dull, faded or oxidized reflector surfaces.Interior corrosion and how much work has it had done. these are some of the main things I look at if I am paying anything other then garage sale prices.

As for your bars value, depending on condition and options, likely $50-$300. I would say the average bars I see going for are in the $150-$250 range. Unless its a junker, lots of photos seem to help as it can show condition better.

Thank you for the reply.

I’ll get some images of the LP6000 and post them up when I get time to do so, which may help for better guidance of an approximate value.

 

[jdh]

What Jennifer said. Another factor is options. Wig-wags, alleys and working stingrays, all add or take away from the value. Also, what bulbs does it have. If they are all the bayonet type, it would make a good display item, then if it had the H-1 bulbs. I happen to like the LP, but it is not really used on the road anymore.

 

[TXDPSCJ]

Is there a way to test fire the light bar? It has the original length of cable on it with the many strands of wires coming out of the cable.

I don't want to damage it by trying to guess and touch wires to power (car battery). I do not have a switch box for it to wire up either.

What's the best way to bench test?

 

[Jennifer Rose Towing]

Since the speaker has it's own wiring, ground the large black and apply power the other wires individually. I believe the speaker wires are brown in that harness but if you only put power to one wire you are not completing the circuit and won't damage it. You can also look in the bar to see what wires go where. They will go to a 2 terminal block so easy to trace with these.

 

[zxaz]

To give you an idea i've Paid for one 48 inchs 200.00... in nice condition with 4 rotator and 2 diamond mirror.....Had to polish the lens to make them like new...

 

[TXDPSCJ]

To give you an idea i've Paid for one 48 inchs 200.00... in nice condition with 4 rotator and 2 diamond mirror.....Had to polish the lens to make them like new...

Welcome to the site and thanks for that but if info!

I still have not had the chance to get images of the light bar. I'll try and do it over this weekend and maybe some of you Pros can help to determine exactly what it is that I have (as far as how it's set up).

 

[zxaz]

These rotator bar were pretty simple and efficient with new lens or polished.....

 

[zxaz]

Here an example of my last xl 5100 that i've refurbished...i've changed the rotators gears on it to make them fast....since i've alway prefered the fast rotator on halogen bar...it make them way more efficient imo......

 

[TXDPSCJ]

Hey all,

Finally had a chance to get some images of the LP6000 Code 3 light bar.

Feel free to educate me on what exactly you see, etc.

I only did a quick clean to the outside - didn't open it up to clean the inside. But overall, for as old as it is, it's in really great shape. Like I said, I did a quick clean to the lenses, I could do better buffing/polishing but don't have the time to focus on that (at this time). The lenses are not yellowed (from what I can tell). They have some minor scuffs/spider webbing/surface scratches - but nothing major at all.

The center speaker section is absent of any speaker - but I can see a flat circuit like board inside with some blue wiring going to it. Couldn't get a good pic to even post.

Since this is a TX asset, I am guessing it's set up for their specs - and this was a mid 80's- early 90's bar that was in service. Asset tag is still attached.

Thanks for any additional insight.

From the wires cabling that can be seen in the image, which can I tap to a stand alone car battery or jump box to fire it up (with it damaging anything)?

 

[TXDPSCJ]

@Jennifer Rose Towing

Hi,

I was just wondering if you can give me any additional input on my LP6000 since I was able to get some pics to share.

I was also wondering if in your prior post I would still ground the black wire from the main cable, then use any individual wire to a positive terminal on a jump box or car battery to fire off the unit to see how it functions? Is there a way to make all of the lights on it come on at once without damaging the unit?

Thanks!

 

[Jennifer Rose Towing]

It appears to have 4 rotators, 2 Takedowns in front and 2 rear flashers. Looks like it has had some wiring work done inside but grounding the black and powering the others will activate the functions. You could have it all come on at once but it would require a setup that can handle the high current.

 

[Stampeed Valkyrie]

Also looks like it still has its factory wiring harness.. You can go by the main wiring block and see what colors go where.. Blue wires are for the speaker. Open it up get a meter and test for continuity on the leads. Black should be ground. Before you power it up, FUSE your + lead.