Ipuvaepe
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Jtsou said:What I did was make a plywood box, housing an old PC powersupply, with about 52amps on ONE(1) single 12V rail. I mounted the powersupply in the box and ran the AC cord out of the box. I took a SPST switch and connected one end to ground on the powersupply and the other end to the GREEN wire on the 20 pin motherboard connector(someone earlier mentioned jumping the purple wire to ground, that is a 5v wire and jumping that is not good...) This way, I can cut the powersupply on and off at my leisure. I took 3 cigar lighter sockets and mounted them in the box, wiring them to a 12v lead from the power supply. I also ran a 12v "hot" post and a ground post on top of the box with alligator clips so if i needed something besides a cigar socket, i had it. You can also use the 3.3v and 5v leads if you choose to.
ryan81986 said:Would a duracomm dps-55 be ok for running lower amperage lightbars like a liberty?
DuraComm DPS-55 Product Reviews
JohnMarcson said:Amperage wise yes...
Wheels said:
diggerdug.517 said:Anyone know of any inverters that are better than any others ??
50theman said:I just bought one of these POWERMAX PM3-100 12 VOLT 100 AMP CONVERTER CHARGER WITH 3 STAGE AUTOMATIC SMART CHARGING, I am very pleased with it.
vonirkinshtine said:I just did the ATX mod last night and wow...
I had a 600W power supply laying around from my old computer and I have been needing a way to test lighting set-ups on a work bench before tearing out the interior of my truck. It was incredibly easy! All you need are pairings of yellow wires (+12V) and black wires (ground). Also, leave yourself an extra ground to tie into the green wire ("power ON"). All of the other wires, just snip and cover the ends (electrical tape should work just fine).
After about an hour, I had it all buttoned back up and I'm reading 12.71 VDC off both of my leads. My particular power supply provides 20A off the +12 VDC rail...MORE than enough to test any LED project I would work on.
For connectors, I'm a fan of Anderson Powerpoles (I get mine from Powerwerx: Online Shopping for Anderson Power Products Powerpoles, Wouxun Radios, Wire & Cable, Adapter Cables, Powerpole Power Splitters, West Mountain Radio RIGrunner & more). You buy the individual components (which are available in different colors to match your wire color), and make your own pigtails.
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Captain4164 said:Ok, Ive read thru this thread, and it may as well be written in a foreign language. I dont understand Amps, Watts, etc.
My question is this. Is there a way I can have one power source, and have the leads off each light or light bar run to a common place and turn each on on by itself, then switch the leads from another bar, to run it, then switch to a beacon and run it. Im thinking for the Areos and Jets I have of getting a small switch, like a Federal SW400, run power to that and just plug in a bar and run it, unplug that bar, and plug in a different bar.
Make sense??
ex416 said:i use a single 35 amp power source hooked up to a FS sw300 (6 switches) and use quick disconnects for 6 power and 6 ground leads running from the sw300. can have 6 lights hooked up at once and turn them on/off individually and if need be can switch over to other lights fairly quick. depending on the amps the lights draw you can run more than one at a time. the 1st switch on the sw300 is rated at 40 amps w/the remaining ones rated at 20 amps each. (i'm not sure what the amp rating is for the switches on a sw400 - its probably similar to the sw300). you will need to know what the amp draw of each of your lights (can be calculated by adding up the total wattage of the bulbs and then dividing by 12 and then adding the amps each motor draws).
timmy said:hi....
i have obtained, cleaned up, and mounted two Aerodynic Model 22 (Mini) lightbars on wooden stands for display. i put a 12vdc 30amp power supply i bought on amazon.com into each stand and wired this all up. i am running into the problem with each one of "start up surge" requirements that are just a little too much for these power supplies. i can get a couple of more power supplies and parallel them since i know that works with my larger aerodynic LAPD bar but that would be overkill. so here is my question - could i incorporate a start capacitor into the circuit to get me through the initial surge requirement without adding another power supply into the system...? the issue does appear to be the halogen bulb startup requirement because once the bulbs are warm it easily makes it through the surge but won't when the bulbs are cold. these bars are four light/rotar and not the two light/rotar/mirror configuration - i have one of the two light versions that has no trouble getting through the startup surge when cold with only one of the same power supplies.
timmy